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Contributors, xxiv Preface, xxxv 1 Traditional chocolate making, 1 Stephen T. Beckett
1.1 History, 1
1.2 Outline of the process, 2
1.3 Concept of the book, 7 References, 8 2 Cocoa beans: from tree to factory, 9 Mark S. Fowler and Fabien Coutel
2.1 Introduction, 9
2.2 Growing cocoa, 10
2.3 Fermentation and drying, 20
2.4 The cocoa supply chain, 25
2.5 The cocoa value chain: longterm perspectives and challenges, 31
2.6 Quality assessment of cocoa, 34
2.7 Types and origins of cocoa beans used in chocolate, 42 Conclusions, 47 References, 48 Appendix: Abbreviations, acronyms and organisations, 49 3 Production of cocoa mass, cocoa butter and cocoa powder, 50 Henri J. Kamphuis, revised by Mark S. Fowler
3.1 Introduction, 50
3.2 Cleaning of cocoa beans, 50
3.3 Removal of shell, 52
3.4 Breaking and winnowing, 53
3.5 Alkalisation, 54
3.6 Bean and nib roasting, 54
3.7 Cocoa mass (cocoa liquor), 58
3.8 Cocoa butter, 62
3.9 Cocoa press cake and cocoa powder, 65 Conclusion, 69 Appendix: Manufacturers of cocoa processing equipment, 70 References and further reading, 70 4 Sugar and bulk sweeteners, 72 Christof Krüger
4.1 Introduction, 72
4.2 The production of sugar, 72
4.3 Sugar qualities, 74
4.4 The storage of sugar, 75
4.5 Sugar grinding and the prevention of sugar dust explosions, 77
4.6 Amorphous sugar, 80
4.7 Other sugars and bulk sweeteners, 81
4.8 Physiological characteristics of sugars, bulk sweeteners and special polysaccharides, 89
4.9 The sweetening power of sugars and bulk sweeteners, 92
4.10 Other sensory properties of sugars and bulk sweeteners, 93
4.11 Solubilities and melting points of sugars and bulk sweeteners, 95
4.12 Maximum conching temperatures of chocolate masses with different bulk sweeteners, 95
4.13 Separate conching process for "no sugar added" chocolates, 97
4.14 Pre and probiotic chocolates, 97 Conclusions, 98 References, 98 5 Ingredients from milk, 102 Ulla P. Skytte and Kerry E. Kaylegian
5.1 Introduction, 102
5.2 Milk components, 103
5.3 Milkbased ingredients for chocolate, 114 Conclusion, 131 References, 131 6 Chocolate Crumb, 135 Martin A. Wells
6.1 Introduction and history, 135
6.2 Benefits of milk crumb, 136
6.3 Typical crumb recipes, 137
6.4 Flavour development in chocolate crumb, 137
6.5 Sugar crystallisation during crumb manufacture, 141
6.6 The structure of chocolate crumb, 142
6.7 Typical crumb processes and equipment, 145
6.8 Effect of the crumb process upon the crumb properties, 150
6.9 Changes to crumb during storage, 150 Conclusion, 151 References, 152 7 Properties of cocoa butter and vegetable fats, 153 Geoff Talbot
7.1 Introduction, 153
7.2 Cocoa butter, 154
7.3 Cocoa butter equivalents, 162
7.4 Lauric cocoa butter substitutes, 176
7.5 Nonlauric cocoa butter replacers, 179
7.6 Vegetable fats with specific properties, 181 Conclusion, 182 References and further reading, 183 8 Flavour development in cocoa and chocolate, 185 Gottfried Ziegleder
8.1 Introduction, 185
8.2 Fermentation, 185
8.3 Drying, 190
8.4 Roasting, 193
8.5 Conching, 201
8.6 Dark chocolate and milk chocolate, 205
8.7 Flavour release in chocolate, 208 References, 209 9 Particle size reduction, 216 Gregory R. Ziegler and Richard Hogg
9.1 Introduction, 216
9.2 Principles of fine grinding, 217
9.3 Grinding equipment, 220
9.4 Cocoa nib grinding, 224
9.5 Chocolate refining, 226
9.6 Particle size reduction and chocolate flow properties, 233
9.7 Particle size and sensory properties, 237 Conclusions, 238 References, 239 10 Conching, 241 Stephen T. Beckett, Konstantinos Paggios and Ian Roberts
10.1 Introduction: the reason for conching, 241
10.2 The principles of conching, 242
10.3 The three phases of conching, 248
10.4 Conching machines, 251 Conclusion, 272 References and further reading, 273 11 Chocolate flow properties, 274 Bettina Wolf
11.1 Introduction, 274
11.2 NonNewtonian flow, 275
11.3 Presentation of viscosity measurements, 278
11.4 Single point flow measurement, 279
11.5 Rotational viscometers, 282
11.6 Vibrational viscometers, 285
11.7 Oscillatory rheometers, 285
11.8 Sample preparation and measurement procedures, 286
11.9 Factors affecting the flow properties of chocolate, 289
11.10 Advanced methods to characterise chocolate flow behaviour, 295 Conclusions, 296 Acknowledgements, 296 References, 296 12 Bulk chocolate handling, 298 John H. Walker
12.1 Introduction, 298
12.2 Viscosity and viscometry, 298
12.3 Pump sizes, 301
12.4 General criteria for choosing a pump, 301
12.5 Types of pump, 302
12.6 Pipeline pigging, 307
12.7 Storage of liquid chocolate, 308
12.8 Jacketed pipe work, 309
12.9 Valves, 311
12.10 Contamination removal, 312 Conclusions, 313 Acknowledgements, 313 13 Tempering, 314 Erich J. Windhab
13.1 Introduction, 314
13.2 Physics of cocoa butter crystallisation, 315
13.3 Chocolate tempering technology, 316
13.4 Measurement of temper and its related characteristics, 318
13.5 Tempering processes, 323
13.6 Types of tempering machine, 331
13.7 Properties of CBCS tempered chocolate, 346
13.8 Other methods of tempering, 352 Conclusion, 352 Acknowledgements, 353 References and further reading, 353 Appendix: Machinery manufacturers, 355 14 Moulding, enrobing and cooling chocolate products, 356 Michael P. Gray, revised and updated by Ángel Máñez-Cortell
14.1 Introduction, 356
14.2 Moulding, 356
14.3 Enrobing, 383 Conclusions, 398 Acknowledgements, 398 References and further reading, 398 15 Nonconventional machines and processes, 400 Dave J. Peters
15.1 Introduction, 400
15.2 Ultrasound, 400
15.3 High shear/low temperature crystalliser, 402
15.4 High pressure temperer, 404
15.5 Extrusion, 405
15.6 "Single shot" depositors, 413
15.7 Aeration of chocolate, 418
15.8 Cold forming technologies, 421
15.9 Paste conching, 428 Conclusions, 428 References, 429 16 Chocolate panning, 431 Marcel Aebi, revised by Mark S. Fowler
16.1 Introduction, 431
16.2 Panning methods, 432
16.3 The process of chocolate panning, 434
16.4 Packaging and storage, 444
16.5 The panning department, 445 Conclusions and future developments, 449 References and further reading, 449 Appendix: Manufacturers of panning equipment, 449 17 Chocolate rework, 450 Edward Minson and Randall Hofberger
17.1 Introduction, 450
17.2 Rework, 450
17.3 Constraints, 451
17.4 Economics, 453 Conclusions, 455 References, 455 18 Artisan chocolate making, 456 Sophie Jewett
18.1 Introduction, 456
18.2 Chocolate trends in mature markets, 456
18.3 Selecting the right product lines to make, 458
18.4 Critical considerations, 464
18.5 Taking products to market, 469
18.6 Selecting the right chocolate, 473
18.7 Handtempering techniques, 474 Conclusions, 478 Further reading, 478 19 Chocolate compounds and coatings, 479 Stuart Dale
19.1 Introduction, 479
19.2 What are chocolate compounds and coatings?, 479
19.3 Manufacture of compounds and coatings, 482
19.4 How compounds are used, 485
19.5 Benefits of using chocolate compounds, 485
19.6 Trans fatty acids in chocolate compounds, 488
19.7 Environmental aspects, 489
19.8 Summary of the properties of compound coatings, 489
19.9 The future of compound coatings, 489 References and further reading, 491 20 Recipes, 492 Edward G. Wohlmuth
20.1 Chocolate tastes in different countries, 492
20.2 The basic ingredients, 494
20.3 Conching to develop flavours, 495
20.4 Chocolate recipes, 496 Conclusions, 508 21 Sensory evaluation of chocolate and cocoa products, 509 Meriel L. Harwood and John E. Hayes
21.1 Introduction, 509
21.2 Types of sensory tests, 510
21.3 Special considerations, 513
21.4 General considerations/good sensory testing practices, 517 Conclusions, 519 References, 519 22 Nutritional and health aspects of chocolate, 521 Joshua D. Lambert
22.1 Introduction, 521
22.2 Macronutrients, 522
22.3 Vitamins and minerals, 523
22.4 Flavanols and proanthocyanidins, 523
22.5 Methylxanthines, 524
22.6 Cardiovascular disease, 524
22.7 Obesity and metabolic syndrome, 525
22.8 Inflammation, 526
22.9 Neuroprotective and cognitive effects, 527 Conclusions, 5